Tires
How to understand your tire, when to replace your tires, what are OE tires and low rolling resistance tires. This page includes EVerything you need to know about tires for Electric Vehicles.
Tires are the most common form of basic maintenance that you will have to perform. You may or may not have to rotate your tires every 7,000 miles depending upon the basic maintenance requirements of your vehicle. It is possible to get your tires rotated for FREE.
215 is the width of the tire in mm.
50 is the aspect ratio. The aspect ratio is the height of the tire in mm divided by the width of the tire in mm.
R stands for Rim. R is the diameter of the rim in inches. An R17 means the diameter of the rim is 17".
The next number is the load rating, or tire load capacity. This is the maximum amount of weight that each tire is designed to carry. A load capacity of 90 means that each tire can carry a weight of 1323lbs.
V stands for the speed rating. A speed rating of V indicates that the tire will perform as designed at speeds up to 149mph. At speeds above 149mph the tire will NOT perform as designed.
215/50R17 90V
How to understand your tire.
Section Width:
Aspect Ratio:
Rim Diameter:
Load Capacity:
Speed Rating:
If you are purchasing NEW tires, you should always get the same section width, aspect ratio and rim diameter. However, it's okay to get a tire with a different load capacity or speed rating. Example: You are buying NEW tires. Your tire is a 215/50R17 90V. You MUST get a tire that is 215/50R17. It is okay to get a tire that is 215/50R17 85H.
In addition to telling you the section width, aspect ratio, rim diameter, load capacity and speed rating; your tire will also contain other important information as well.
Manufacturer:
Michelin is the tire manufacturer.
Name:
Energy Saver A/S is the name of the tire.
Type of Tire:
This is an All Season tire. It is labelled with A/S.
Date of Manufacture:
All tires are labelled with the date that they were manufactured. It will come in a 00/00 Month/Year format.
This is important. Remember, tires don't last forever. You want to replace tires that are over 6 years old. Also, when you purchase new tires, look for the date to make sure the tire shop didn't cheat you and sell you old tires.
Maximum Tire Pressure:
This is the MAXIMUM amount of tire pressure you want to inflate your tire to. Tire pressure is measured in PSI, pounds per square inch. Inflate your tire with too much pressure and it may burst, inflate your tire too little and your fuel efficiency and range will be reduced. With a tire that is inflated too little you may also "feel" each of the bumps in the road more acutely. Keep your tires inflated to their recommended Maximum Tire Pressure.
Your tire will also contain other information as well, such as whether it is tubeless, the USDOT Tire identification number, the maximum load capacity and information about the treadwear, traction and temperature grades.
Mud and Snow tires will be labelled with M+S or with a snowflake symbol. All Season tires will be labelled with A/S.
These tires were manufactured 03/22.
The Maximum Tire pressure for these tires is 44 PSI.
You NEED to replace your tires:
When do I Need To Replace My Tires?
If The tread depth is less than 4/32”. As the tread depth becomes thinner, your stopping distance is lengthened. You can wait until the tread depth is 3/32” but your stopping distance is lengthened, which puts you at an increased risk for an accident.
If they are over 6 years old. If a tire is over 6 years old, replace it. Even if the tread depths are above 4/32”, replace a tire over 6 years old.
When cracked or developing dry rot. When tires are exposed to the elements, they can become damaged. When a tire is exposed to high temperatures, or excessive UV rays from the sun, it can become cracked or develop what is called dry rot. Dry rot is when the rubber in the tires begins to deteriorate. If your tire is cracked or has dry rot, replace it.
When there is irregular tire wear. Irregular tire wear, or uneven tire wear may occur if you have an alignment issue, if you have forgotten to rotate your tires, or if you have either FWD or RWD. The real solution is to get an alignment, but you may also need to replace tires with uneven tread wear.
When there is a bulge or puncture larger than the size of a quarter. If there is a bulge in your tire, or what looks like a bubble in the rubber, replace the tire. The bulge is only going to burst and become a flat tire. If you have a small puncture in the tire, there is a possibility of patching the tire (from the inside to save that tire). However, if the puncture is larger than the size of a quarter, the structural integrity of the tire is compromised and the tire must be replaced.
You NEED to replace your tires if: the tread depth is less than 4/32", if there is a bulge or puncture larger than the size of a quarter, if there is irregular tire wear that can not be accounted for, if they are cracked or have dry rot or if they are over 6 years old.
OE tires are the tires that your vehicle originally came with from the manufacturer. They are the "Original Equipment".
If understanding tread depth, aspect ratios, rim diameters and low rolling resistance is too complicated for you; Just get the OE tires, the tires that the manufacturer of your vehicle put on your vehicle as Original Equipment. They will be fine.
What are OE Tires?
OE Tires are "Original Equipment". They are the tires that your vehicle came with from the manufacturer.
Low Rolling Resistance tires are tires that are designed to have a low rolling resistance, that means it takes less effort/energy to keep them rolling. They are a form of Energy Saver Tires. Because it takes less energy to keep them rolling, your vehicle will use less energy, i.e. fuel and therefore your vehicle should* be more fuel efficient with these tires.
What are "Low Rolling Resistance Tires"?
Low Rolling Resistance tires have a different coefficient of kinetic energy. The coefficient of kinetic energy is a coefficient relating to how much force it will take to keep one type of material moving over another. The coefficient of kinetic energy varies depending upon the two types of materials involved.
Imagine rubber sliding across pavement.
Now imagine silicone sliding across pavement.
It will be easier, and take less force for the silicone to slide across the pavement. Therefore there will be a different coefficient of kinetic energy for silicone-pavement compared to rubber-pavement. Get it?
Low Rolling Resistance tires tend to be made of a different material, generally a silicone/polymer composite material. Not only are they made of a different material (and have a different coefficient of kinetic energy). They also are designed differently. They are designed to be lighter, because a lighter tire will take less energy to keep moving compared to a heavier tire. They are also designed to have a thinner side wall. More on this later.
In theory and in design "Low Rolling Resistance Tires" are constructed to be fuel efficient. They are designed to get you better gas mileage in a combustion engine, and a longer range in an Electric Vehicle. You might guess that Low Rolling Resistance Tires are more expensive. They are.
Low Rolling Resistance Tires, Are they worth it?
Summary:
My Opinion:
Low Rolling Resistance Tires aren't worth it. No.
Each of the times that I have gotten an extended Range, 300 miles @ 80% battery capacity (extrapolates to a 360 mile range), 372 mile range, and 342 miles @ 90% (extrapolates to 376 mile range). Each of the times that I have gotten an extended range, I have NOT had low rolling resistance tires on my vehicle. I had regular inexpensive tires on my vehicle each of the times that I have gotten an extended range.
Also, because the Low Rolling Resistance Tires have a thinner sidewalls, it is much easier for the sidewall to tear.
My Opinion:
Just buy the inexpensive tires that are the right size for your vehicle.
Happy Driving EVeryone!!!